V is for Vogue

Wow, sorry for the hiatus! I just moved to London, so everything has been rather hectic for the past week or two. If anyone has any divine knowledge regarding cheap places to eat out and where to find great vintage, please let me know... It must be said that besides the divine architecture, I love London's fashion sense. No Uggs and sweatpants to be seen (yet). Unfortunately, my fashion sense has been laying low for the time being while I acclimate to the new work environment and my peers, so I have primarly been observing my surroundings.

In other news, The Sartorialist is in my neighborhood.

There needs to be a fringe revolution. While my sister and some others would vehemently disagree, I think it is time for a revival. The pre-America days, the Twenties, and the Sixties all exhibited some smashing ideas.

The Native Americans

photo courtesy of universityrelations.com

At this point I have reason to believe that being first really does make you better. No one can quite do fringe like they do.

The Twenties

photo courtesy of mrker.com

Though the flappers' use fringe was completely elegant...

The Sixties

photo courtesy of summeroflove.org

Okay, so I know there is no fringe in this picture, but you get the idea. Hippies wear fringe and I happen to be enamored with this photograph. The children of the earth were undoubtedly inspired by the naturalistic elements in Native American attire, giving their fashion a historical significance.

Today?

photo courtesy of tfs

Ah, Kate Moss. Always revealing to us underlings the trends of the future (note sarcasm), but this time I am actually crossing my fingers. Not only is her belt a fringy coveted delight, her hair looks great too.

And me





Shirt: custom
Everything else: who cares

My other great love happens to be dancing. Bellydance and African dance, to be specific. These dances are calculated in such a different way than say... ballet, but they are no less graceful. Costume has always been a critical part of dance in order reflect the message and story of the dancers. Every move of a dancer is considered, so her attire should require the same attention to detail. The Prima donna in Gisele would be much less effective wearing streetclothes--no! The costumes serve to enhance her personality and in the second act, her ghostliness--without these, the performance would lack what makes theater theater. The drama! The same can be said with bellydance. Without the colors and jingles of a cabaret costume, the energy of the act would be less effective. Without the tassels and excessive jewelry of a tribal costume, the sinuous movements of the dancer may go unnoticed. A costume allows a performer to slip into another dimension of themselves, embracing a person not often permitted to appear in the public circle of their lives.

That being said, I design my own costumes for my dances--so I'll share one with you!

In motion

Grainy and fabulous, kind of like multigrain bagels.

Close up

I hope you can look past my glaringly transparent skin and cleavage... It's looking a little haggard after a rough move, but with a couple well placed coins and stiches, it will be looking as right as rain. You wouldn't believe how satisfying those clinking heavy coins are.

The devilishly fun A'N'D duo--Azumi and David--of London only want to make you laugh at yourself. All of their accessories (and clothing) display a healthy sense of irony and fun, which this industry is desperate for. With a fondness for putting hairpieces in strange places and heels on the bottom of anything that could bear to stand, they certainly are not afraid of their electric creativity. I have never been wary of blatant ugliness in fashion, so these things are a dead ringer for precisely what delights me. Phaidon's Sample Book describes the designers as, "totally individual, they don't look or act like fashion designers often behave. Azumi wears a pair of metal spectacles, styles her hair in a neat bob and looks like a gamine or a college girl. David resembles a chemist and though he seems serious, he always has a sparkle in his eye."

What pleasantries! I happen to lust after the spectacle necklace due to my amused bewilderment regarding the geek-chic trend. My, oh my...

I must admit, I have a minor obsession with light and lightness in many forms. As a fine arts major, exploration of the effect of light on a subject and mood is an integral part of my learning. With a minor in astrophysics, the composition and cababilities of light are a facinating prospect. As a fashion person, lightness has become relevant not just with body image, but with materials as well. With so much heaviness in every day life, it is no wonder fashion has fled toward airy, ephemeral designs.

With the field of fashion becoming less "mega-trend" oriented, one cannot make sweeping assumptions about the movement of the style tides. For every floaty Chloe frock, there will be a glittery Gareth Pugh cube head traipsing down the runway. But I digress. Drifting through the pages of AnOther Magazine, I couldn't help but notice the abundance of minimal, structured, and light dresses.

Jil Sander

Photo courtesy of models.com

Jil Sander has a nack for structured minimalism, so it is no surprise that she applied it to a lighter than air frock. I would love to pair that with A Final Home jacket and sky scraping heels. An urban fairy fantasy!

Dolce and Gabbana

photo courtesy of style.com

It would be a shame to discuss ethereal fashions without mentioning Dolce and Gabbana's spring collection. The designers invited ten artists to personalize their dresses for the season with unimaginably lovely results. If anything, it made high fashion more accessible to the masses--it encourages people to turn their clothing into something totally individual. And if there is any uber-trend that has surfaced, it is the desire for individuality in the market of mass production.

Every time fashion week rolls around, there are innumerable luxuries I would love to add to my closet but frankly don't have the funds for. Hence, this cheap chick has resorted to DIY versions of more expensive items that often satisfy me doubly... it was made by myself and it barely cost a dime. Because I am spending the week with my beau I haven't been able to access my materials, so here is a list of items you should expect to pop up in here over the next couple weeks.

Fringe sandals a la Etro

photo courtesy of tfs

I imagine these will come out something like spats...

Tulle skirt a la Alexander Mcqueen

I think it would be redundant to credit this photo

Alexander McQueen is probably my #1 inspiration for dressing on days I feel like I belong in a story book.

Cream puff dress a la Miu Miu

photo courtesy of style.com

Everyone and their mother has done a DIY version of this dress by now, but dog-gonnit, I want my own! (Cue Veruca Salt theme music).

So let's talk about the great ugly shoes of our time: Doc Martens, Uggs, and Oxfords**. While each of them warrants their own special wince from me, I confess that I have owned (or still own) two of them. Doc Martens I justified with my teenage mutinous tendencies. Uggs I justified with the bitter Northern winters and cold toes, though I could never bring myself to buy a pair. And Oxfords? Well, I am nostalgic for my school uniform.

It seems as though I am not the only one who has a soft spot for ugly, unsexy footwear. Uggs are still on every third pair of feet; Doc Martens are coming back with a vengeance; and Oxfords are popping up in all new forms. Cutouts! Heels! Platforms! Pink!

So why has fashion taken to the "ugly" side of things? However much I'd hate to pull the female empowerment card, I think that has a lot to do with it. We are reclaiming our arches and reconsidering what it means to be feminine. Female footwear has shifted from stilleto-licious to something Combat worthy (Docs), Lodge worthy (Uggs), and Intellectual (Oxfords). What I think is so divine about this movement is how these ugly ducklings are being reinterpreted for modern fashion.

Docs

Daisy Lowe makes Doc Martens sexy! No longer are they solely for the feet of angry teens (no pun intended). Also, it makes sense that the originals would make their way back to the limelight after that infamous Chloe reinterpretation.

photo courtesy of fashionista.com

Uggs
I don't feel the need to pictographically prove how popular Uggs have been. Sienna Miller, anyone?

Oxfords

However much I tend to resist trends, I've fallen head over heels for florals + Oxford combination. The bags of my grandmother's clothing in the spare bedroom have been looking more and more appealing recently...

photo courtesy of thefashionspot.com

**Note: I refuse to acknowledge the existence of Crocs.

I have avoided considering this trend for quite some time now, but it seems that it is here to stay--at least until we are reunited with our fall blazers. That being said, it appears that American patriotism in fashion has held fast since its debut as trend du jour on the S/S 08 runway. Global frustration with America has sashayed onto the fashion front, albiet in a rather satirical manner. The roots of this trend are undoubtedly the result of dwindling faith in America's staying power... and hasn't fashion always been interested in staying power? The irony lies in the fact that while nary an American or American retailer has embraced the stars and stripes, it runs rampant in European mags and shops.

Exhibit A. Chanel runway S/S 08

Exhibit B. Topshop dress, March.

Exhibit C. i-D magazine photoshoot.

However, there is another form of "patriotism" being pushed into the American stores. Disney! No other company defines American spirit quite so clearly (besides Wal-mart, but that's another blog), so it is no surprise that in this time of uncertainty that citizens would rush into the arms of their colorful comrades.

Exhibit D. Disney Couture Jewelry.

Exhibit E. H&M Disney merchandise.

Interesting. Baudelaire would be proud!

Photos courtesy of flyingsaucer.typepad.com and karmaloop.com

You know you're a fashion addict when your desire for every Spring British fashion editorial trumps your need for underwear. Ahem.

Or is this the greatest grunge-chic jacket?

Indeed, I have a general amorosity for anything Mike & Chris, but on sale for $298 at chocosho.com, it's hard to resist. It beckons me to sit in a dark Parisian cafe and to smoke Virginia Slims out of a cigarette holder from the set of Breakfast at Tiffany's. Le sigh.

As of late, I've had the good fortune to stumble across several "non-mainstream" designers who have tickled my fancy and have threatened to deplete my bank account. First, there are the darkly whimsical and delightful designs of Erica Weiner:

Imagine one of nature's most intimidating defenses (they are porcupine quills) dangling from my vulnerable earlobes! I recently cut 10 inches off the length of my hair, so my neck and ears have been feeling rather exposed. Another piece that I have my eyes on happens to be...

A silver cast hummingbird skull! The artist claims she discoverd this in the archives of a science teacher, so I wouldn't feel too sorry for sporting the creature's noggin. Fashion for the sake of science!

And while I am aware that Knox handbags may be whispered about in fashion circles, I do believe they should be lauded with much more praise.

Oh yes, someday soon this shall be coddled in the nook of my arm in all of its buttery leather, hardware, and bronze goodness. While I wait for my next paycheck, my search for designers who deserve recognition will continue...